The Huntsman - Bath Food Review
Posted on: 2017-04-24
Our rating:
Lovely wonky old building with delicious food; a true West Country Inn
It’s a funny thing but when you live in Bath there are some things you take for granted, like lovely Georgian buildings, The Huntsman for example. That there are plenty of good (and otherwise) places to eat, cafes and vamped up gastro pubs is something you expect but going to lunch here I was reminded of visiting Bath years ago, long before I came to live here.
The Huntsman is right in the centre, close to the Abbey, just up from the station and around the corner from Bath Rugby Club. But just because it is central doesn’t mean that it is well used, in Bath places come and go every month. So an issue is ‘how do you keep em coming through the door?’ Firstly, the Georgian interior has wonderful spaces, so there is flexibility in seating and standing rooms. We sat and ate in a quiet corner and there are other warm and accommodating places to take friends, couples or business associates. There are also beautiful, light, upstairs rooms, one with a view over the parade garden. I took a peek as I couldn’t resist going up that grand stairwell, with wooden panelling, and through the fan-shaped, arched windowed entrance to the main reception room; these are antique features that many places deliberately change. Before I get accused of behaving like I’m from the listed building agency let me just make clear that all I’m trying to say is that this interior is so much part of the Huntsman’s charm. Once an Inn, always an Inn; it’s a very well used old building and once upon a time there were more like them. It has very smart interior without being ‘posh’ or trying to disguise its origins. I was told that apart from private hire, people wanting to eat while the rugby crowd were downstairs were well catered for up there. I for one would love to throw a party there.
Other attractive features include a bar well stocked with real ales and wines. We don’t drink alcohol during the day so the food was more important to us. And, on that note I was happily surprised at the range of options. There are two menus. A bar snack and sandwich menu, perfect for a light bite with a drink (average price per item £7.00), and a fuller three course menu. Out of the latter we went for a share platter – the meaty one. This was an ample array of cured meats with olives, roasted vegetables, artisan breads and a dressing dip. This really was a meal in itself, nicely garnished and the selection was a well-chosen combination of high quality meats. We wondered how we would cope with the second course – but we managed!
I had pine nut crusted rack of lamb, served with new potatoes and minted peas. I have to say it was perfect. The crust was lightly crunchy and the meat just the right pink inside – still moist and full of flavour. We were tempted by a good range of vegetarian options such as Sweet Potato Curry, but my partner went for an unusual fish salad – London Porter Hot Smoked Salmon Nicoise. The salmon is served in chunks and has a roast texture not at all like the usual sort of thinly sliced smoked salmon, it isn’t greasy and yet the flavour is pleasantly smokey. The dish is a mix of the fish and light, fresh salad with Quail eggs.
We couldn’t cope with dessert although perhaps I should have asked for some Fullers Ice cream with Poached Peach or Lemon Posset with homemade short bread in a doggie bag? But all I could manage was a shot of good espresso.
The staff were informal, friendly and very efficient. It was easy to talk to them and find out about the old place and ask questions about the food.
During our visit I noticed a varied clientele, tourists, regulars, small groups of men, women – this is a feature which is happily not like the old days, when women often felt pubs were exclusively a male domain. It wasn’t crowded at lunch time, just pleasant. Not a place to take children I felt, the only outdoor space is at the front, for smokers. I had never been to The Huntsman before because I had always thought of it as a big crowd, drinkers place, but now I would certainly go again – choose the time - and recommend the menu.
Ratings:
Atmosphere 4/5
Service 5/5
Food 4/5
Value 5/5
Address: 1 Terrace Walk, North Parade, Bath BA1 1LJ. Check out The Huntsman's website here and find them on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Article by:
Vicky is involved with the local arts community, teaching performing arts and also writing theatre/circus reviews. She's been living and happily eating her way round Bath for 12 years. And in her words "I mean to go on as I started!"
